A Travellerspoint blog

Ukraine

Day 01. Ľviv

Pan-European Voyage

snow

I started my winter European trip by taking a train to Ľviv, Ukraine on January 23rd.

After a day-long ride, I was exceptionally happy to find myself outdoors, even though it was snowing and all. I was wondering whether Ľviv was like they said it was, since it is known in Russia not only for its gorgeous architecture but also for its continuing Russophobia.

Surely enough, this turned out to be yet another big Russian lie against Ukraine. The only thing that made me doubt slightly was the railway tickets officer's attitude at the train station: she ignored me when I addressed her in Russian (though she must have spoken it perfectly well), so I had to use my poor Ukrainian.

I found Ľviv unbelievably beautiful. With its architecture of baroque, classical and renaissance styles, it is no doubt the most picturesque town in the whole of the post-Soviet space.

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The trees in Ľviv are entirely covered with mistletoe (which is often infested with Nargles, I presume). I found out later that it was typical of the whole region.

When it went all dark, I thought it was high time I ascended the Zamkova Hora (a.k.a. Lviv Castle Hill). Actually, it was nothing special, but there was still something mysterious and romantic about this place. I suppose Zamkova Hora is a popular meeting place among the Leopolitans themselves.

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I went down on the other side of the hill, finding myself at the Pidzamče train station. I considered taking a suburban train to the Ľviv station but I ended up saving money and walking there instead, for I had like five spare hours until my train to Užhorod.

My stay in Ľviv has taught me an important thing: one shouldn't get stuck in one single town for more than five or six hours if they are not intending to spend a night in this town. This has found much support since.

Posted by degoiabeira 03:25 Archived in Ukraine Comments (0)

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